Feb 042013
 
Close-up of nearly removed apricot tree and its rootball.

Time to remove the apricot tree, Grandpa’s Apricot Tree, in our back garden.  Almost no fruit in at least 6 years.  Seasons, soil, water, and our hungry food-producing mindsets will wait no longer!  Time to nurture another tree.  We will plant a Santa Rosa plum tree, who’s namesake is the next town over from our sunny California garden.

 

Almost!  I almost got the entire apricot rootball out before coming to my senses.  Yes, I like to create an animal habitat EVERY time I dig into the soil.  But, I thought I would shortcut that vision because so many parts of the garden call for my attention.  (Truth be told, the garden would do very well without my meddling.)  Then, with ¾’s of the root ball removed and even less breath in my lungs, I came to my senses. 

 

Yes!, this is a habitat.  I can stop right here.  This rootwad DOES NOT have to be completely removed from the bed.  The Santa Rosa plum can be planted next to the almost-removed rootball of Grandpa’s Apricot Tree.  My exhausted muscles can think of many reasons why to keep the leaned over, buried tree trunk.  Watch today’s video and the next 2 to come to find out why!

 

Habitat it and they will come!

 

20130130 Grandpa’s Apricot Root Worlds Fair 1 of 3

 (video):

20130130 Grandpa’s Apricot Root Worlds Fair (pics):

The apricot tree was pruned to make removal easier.The apricot tree was pruned to make removal easier.  Note the old grafting sites (with yellow grafting sealer); even new stock would not produce fruit.  A shame – the tree growth was vigorous with beautiful structure and wood/bark.

 

A tree is down!  Repeat, a tree is down!A tree is down!  Repeat, a tree is down!  After cutting some roots with a shovel, and bronco-riding the tree, other roots snapped and the tree was rendered a soil dweller.

 

Close-up of nearly removed apricot tree and its rootball.Close-up of nearly removed apricot tree and its rootball.  This is where, when I discovered that the tree need not be completely removed, that the soil-rich rootball makes a fantastic garden animal habitat.

 

Enjoy your habitat thinking-out-of-the-box creations.  Nothin is debris in a habitat garden food forest!

Tony

Jan 172013
 
Insect Eggs on Pine Needle.

Pine Brush Pile is a  Zone 4 or 5 (Permaculture) habitat oasis in Tony’s back yard.  Great place to resource this year’s Xmas tree.

 20130114 Pine Brush Pile (video):

 

Pine Brush Pile (pics in Tony’s book):

Insect Eggs on Pine Needle.Figure B.4 Insect Eggs on Pine Needle. [The picture has two parts: the background is from a distance and an insert is the close-up of the eggs. See post below for the close-up.]

 

 

Close-up of Insect Eggs on Pine Needle.  Figure B.4 Insect Eggs on Pine Needle.  The insect eggs shown are probably true bug eggs.  True bugs, order Hemiptera, are insects like cicadas, stink bugs, planthoppers, leafhoppers, shield bugs, aphids, and others.  All bugs are insects, but not all insects are bugs!   True bug eggs often have the visible “escape hatch” (the circular disc on the top of each egg), which is visible in the inset photo close-up view.   I particularly love the outer texture to the egg wall — looks like lime bumps on an orange.

 

 

Pine Brush Pile (pics from Tony’s garden):

Nest-building supplies made available for birds.Nest-building supplies made available for birds.  Lots of birds come and go in Pine Brush Pile thicket, some looking to build nests.  Yarn, string, and hair is left to help them color coordinate and insulate their nests.  Always fun to discover “foreign” articles in a bird nest.

 

Ground view of Pine Brush Pile from Snake Shores.Ground view of Pine Brush Pile from Snake Shores.  Perhaps a snake will slither down from the thick, warm slate of Snake Shores.  It can enter Mayan Totem Seat, the 18-inch-deep stack of slate AND spacers in the foreground, or go beyond, into the coolness and food-rich jungle of Pine Brush Pile.

 

Pine log, shaped to maximize thicket-building.Pine log, shaped to maximize thicket-building.   The branch stubs left on this log will keep the log off the ground and from snugging up to other logs.  More space between logs means…[who knows but Habitat It and They Will Come!].  See next pic for the placement of this log in Pine Brush Pile.

Nobody but us pine logs here!Pine logs and branches in Pine Brush Pile.  Helter skelter never looked so good!

 

Enjoy your habitat thicket creations.  Nothin is debris in a habitat garden food forest!

Tony

 

 

Dec 072012
 
Watering with finer spout holes.

First a video re “Bucket Watering Can DIY 4 of 4”, then some pics of the project (below the video):

Bucket Watering Can DIY 4 of 4 (video):

From the project (pics):

 

New and Improved watering can (model 000000000000000002) has smaller holes.  New and Improved watering can (model 000000000000000002) has smaller holes.  A smaller spout stream helps distribute the water more evenly and is less harsh on bare soil and fragile seedlings.

 

A look inside the watering can ready for application.A look inside the watering can ready for application.  Note the floating food particles that would clog up the spout to an ordinary watering can.  THIS is no ordinary watering can!

 

Watering with finer spout holes.Watering with finer spout holes.   Mission accomplished – the new watering streams are less sloppy than the larger-holed watering can.

 

 

Happy DIY projects for your Habitat Food Forest.  See you tomorrow.

Tony

Dec 072012
 
Watering the garden with our new watering can.

First a video re “Bucket Watering Can DIY 3 of 4”, then some pics of the project (below the video):

Bucket Watering Can DIY 3 of 4 (video):

From the project (pics):

Filling the watering can with dishwater (blackwater).Filling the watering can with dishwater (blackwater).   Check out that water!  It’s a mix of soapy water, food particles from our dishes, and pasta drain-off water.  Here microbes, come and get it!

 

Diluting the dishwater with fresh water.Diluting the dishwater with fresh water.  We’ll get more coverage in the garden by adding fresh water to the nutrient “concentration”.

 

Watering the garden with our new watering can.Watering the garden with our new watering can.  Note the use of the fill hole as handle grip.  It works!  And, easy to clean.

 

Happy DIY projects for your Habitat Food Forest.  See you tomorrow.

Tony

Dec 072012
 
Cutting a fill hole in the bucket’s lid.

First a video re “Bucket Watering Can DIY 2of 4”, then some pics of the project (below the video):

Bucket Watering Can DIY 2 of 4 (video):

From the project (pics):

Cutting a fill hole in the bucket’s lid.Cutting a fill hole in the bucket’s lid.  The large hole allows filling the watering can easily AND can be used as a non-moving grip while watering garden.

 

Finding center opposite the watering can’s grip (the fill hole).Finding center opposite the watering can’s grip (the fill hole).  The bucket was then flipped 180 degrees to locate the center of the holes to be drilled.

 

Spout holes are drilled to both the right and left of the center mark hole.Spout holes are drilled to both the right and left of the center mark hole.  The more holes, the wider the watering row-of-streams will be.

 

Happy DIY projects for your Habitat Food Forest.  See you tomorrow.

Tony

Nov 252012
 
April 2011. Salamander Castle moved to back garden.

First a video  re “Salamander Castle’s Ant Colony”,  then some  pics of Crossroads Compost (below the video):

Garden Tour (Salamander Castle’s Ant Colony) (video):

Crossroads Compost, a brief history (pics):

January, 2008.  Crossroads Compost was yet to be born.

January, 2008. Crossroads Compost was yet to be born, but the straw bale at the back of the yard, next to the fence, was the seed waiting to be planted. That bale was allowed to age there, providing habitat for soil critters and enriching the soil as it broke down.

 

May 2008.  Straw is stored next to the back fence .

May 2008. By now, we are storing straw next to the back fence (but not touching it) at the junction of our garden paths. There is a bale left intact as a seat, habitat, and future source of old straw. Other bales are pulled apart to create a mat over weeds we wanted to eliminate. Note how low ground level is and how young the plants are: currant (foreground), fig (left, supported by hoops), and the pineapple quava (back right).

 

May 2010.  Trellis vines overhead.

May 2010. The ground level is still fairly low; I have not started to stockpile wood chips in Crossroad Compost yet. The currant is larger and sporting green fruit. Fig and grape vine hover on Kiwi Gondola trellis.

 

April 2011.  Salamander Castle moved to back garden.

April 2011. Salamander Castle moved to back garden. This lucky oak stump was rescued from our nearby bike path, where the massive tree came down. Work crews cut the tree away from the path and left Salamander Castle off to the side, not knowing that its destiny was to become an animal habitat. Note the beginning of the wood chip pile covering the Crossroads, soon to be buried with other chips 3 feet deep – that’s a whole lotta nutrients and moisture for the fig, grape, kiwi, currant, blueberry, pineapple guava, apricot, lemon to enjoy. Salamander Castle was moved next to the currant stand and wood chips were piled against it.

 

Happy dusting ants off yourself (from disturbing their nest) and see you tomorrow.

Tony

 

Nov 242012
 
Earthworm Bin tucked away in the protective shade of a tree.

First a video  re “Garden Tour (Earthworms in Bog)”,  then some  pics of earthworms from our Earthworm Bin (below the video):

Garden Tour (Earthworms in Bog) (video):

Earthworms from our Earthworm Bin (pics):

 

Earthworm bin harvest, rich with red wiggler worms.

Earthworm bin harvest, rich with red wiggler worms, is added to a planting bed.

 

Earthworm Bin tucked away in the protective shade of a tree.

Earthworm Bin tucked away in the protective shade of a tree. Note the brick on top to prevent animals from feasting in the box. Evening primrose flower above; calendula flower below.

Pics and captions from Tony’s new book, Habitat It and They will Come :

Figure 4.143  Earthworm Bin Harvest.  Figure 4.143  Earthworm Bin Harvest.  Worm bin harvest layer over planting mix.  The worms and microbes will continue to feed on the organic matter like the eggshell and rhubarb stalk section shown.  And when all those microbe and crawly critters take a break from eating, they might just breed, or die.  The planting bed has been inoculated with Life — life that translates to nutritious and well-aerated soil for the kiwi vines.

 

Figure 4.190  With A Little Help From My Friends.

Figure 4.190  With A Little Help From My Friends.  Earthworm bin harvest to be placed at the crown of the tree.  These red wiggler worms, a typical compost pile worm, may not stay in the tree mound and surrounding soil on a long-term basis but they will enrich and aerate the soil till they do leave.

 

Happy earthworm harvest and see you tomorrow.

Tony

 

Nov 222012
 
Lemon Pot planted with pac choi.

Day 7 in this 6-day video series (bonus day!): Preparing patio pots for winter veggie planting.

First a video  re “Patio Planting Pots”,  then some pics (below the video):

Patio Veggie Pots 7 of 6 (video):


Patio Planting Pots Sprouting Seedlings  and Ripening Scarlet Runner Bean Seeds (pics):

 

Lemon Pot planted with pac choi.

Lemon Pot planted with pac choi. This is the patio pot that I planted the hugelkultur, a thick layer of weeds and greens, just above the drainage gravel.

 

Carrot seedlings in a large patio pot.

Carrot seedlings in a large patio pot.

 

Scarlet runner beans continue to ripen on the kitchen windowsill.

Scarlet runner beans continue to ripen on the kitchen windowsill. These beans were harvested on day 1 (6 days ago) and seem to be ripening (browning) well.

Happy planting veggies on your patio and see you tomorrow (Happy Thanksgiving!).

Tony

 

Nov 212012
 
Ground level (critter head height) entrance to Leaf Trench Highway.

Day 6 in this 6-day video series: Preparing patio pots for winter veggie planting.

First a video  re “Leaf Layer Added to Leaf Trench Highway”,  then some animal habitat pics (below the video):

Patio Veggie Pots 6 of 6 (video):

Leaf Layer Added to Leaf Trench Highway (pics):

 

Leaf Trench Highway with a fresh layer of tulip magnolia leaves.

Leaf Trench Highway with a fresh layer of tulip magnolia leaves. The trench along the walkway is three feet deep and filled with different organic/yard debris layers. The layers will break down and form rich compost in about 6 months to a year.

 

Leaf Trench Highway extends along the back corner of our yard to Salamander Resort (left).

Leaf Trench Highway extends along the back corner of our yard to Salamander Resort (left). Besides storing organic material (twigs, leaves, straw, manure, pulled weeds), the trench also feeds the fedge (food hedge) along our property line. Pineapple guava, fig, and pomegranate trees, as well as annual veggies, grow in the compost-making veggie bed.

 

Ground level (critter head height) entrance to Leaf Trench Highway.

Critter level, perhaps the head height of a raccoon, skunk, or possum, of the entrance to Leaf Trench Highway. Personally, if I were a salamander, I would crawl under the leaf litter. Lots of tiny tidbit treats (FOOD!) under those moist leaves.

 

Kitchen dishwater ready for the compost pile.

Dishwater ready for the compost pile. Dishwater with soap and food (left bucket) is considered “blackwater”; rinse water is considered “greywater”. We pour blackwater directly into the compost where microbes and micro-critters will process it. The greywater rinse water makes a fine treat for most of the garden, with care not to pour it directly on fruit/vegetables.

 

Happy planting veggies on your patio and see you tomorrow (Happy Thanksgiving!).

Tony

 

Jan 112012
 
20120108-LTH-retaining-wall

Garden Log (what I did):

071509 LTH -- soil harvest

071509 Leaf Trench Highway. Soil has been harvested from the trench, between the slate walk path and the planting bed. The trench will be prepped for more soil making, starting with a base of straw from the awaiting bale. Since this picture, lots of organics have been composted onto and into the trench. Those organics include: tree prunings, wheat straw, alfalfa straw, oak leaves, carbon harvest (for example, pumpkin vines), twigs and stout tree limbs, wood chips, and horse manure. Beautiful, rich, high quality tilth soil has been harvested several times from the trench.

1. Constructed a low retaining wall to increase the soil volume of a planting bed, Leaf Trench Highway.  Leaf Treanch Highway got its name back in 2007 when we were installing irrigation supply to our garden’s back corner.  The water supply was trenched along a walk path, buried about three (3) feet and encased in 3″ perforated plastic drainpipe.  The depth and casement were to allow “mistakes” in the garden — a shovel could graze the drainpipe and might not break through and bust the water supply.  Lots of digging since then, and no busted trench pipe, yet.  The trench was called a “highway” because, when filled with leaves, or other organics, it’s a corridor for critters to move about the garden.

So, there we were, in 2007, with a sizeable 3-foot deep trench running along the property line’s planting bed.  We decided to use the trench to make soil; we would use the trench to turn compostable material into planting soil.

20110929-LTH-Apples

"Opps! Did I spill that?" No, Anita, Leaf Trench Highway is getting a rotten apple harvest -- Sebastopol's finest for our dear soil-making critters.

About every six months, the trench is dug up for a soil harvest.  That harvested soil is then used to amend the soil in the gardens.  And yes, sometimes waiting the six months or so is difficult.  But having fresh, new, teeming-with-microbe, alive! soil on hand when we do harvest is all that much more a treat after the wait.

20100604 LTH -- potatoes

Potato (broad-leaved), garlic (along fence), red and white clover grow in Leaf Trench Highway in the summer of 2010. The red and white clover serve as both insectary and nitrogen-fixing plants.

This time around,  in 2012, I want to grow a crop above the composting trench.  I want us to produce a garlic and vegetable crop WHILE the trench is composting.  I have also found that new crop love a good compost under it.  BUT, the compost can not be too hot or the new crop will burn.  For this planting, there is a good base of wood chips, green manure, oak leaves, and a recent magnolia tree pruning.  Especially with the magnolia twigs and limbs, those bulky organics will supply microbes, miosture, and nutrients to the growing crop.  Also, as the crop plants grow, their roots will travel the moist, nutrient-rich paths along the decaying wood.  Great mulch for the coming dryer months.  Throughout the spring, we will harvest salad from the composting trench.  By July, the garlic will be ready to be dug up — harvest garlic, harvet soil.  Garlic for the kitchen, soil for the garden.

20120108-LTH-retaining-wall

Low retaining wall built to increase the soil capacity of Leaf Trench Highway's planting bed. Old redwood fence boards were cut in two-foot lengths and pounded into the gap between the planting bed and the vertical slate border. Using a wood block between the fence board and the sledgehammer kept the fence boards from splitting.

 

 

 

20120108-LTH-retaining-wall, close-up

20120108-LTH-retaining-wall, close-up. Note the beautiful mosses and lichens on the old fence board. Not only is this FREE!!! redwood fence board functional (it will last many years in the soil), it is also beautiful. Moist soil from the planting bed was rubbed into the board cuts to instantly age those fresh-cut surfaces -- we are talking art here! I am interested to see if that soil smear will promote moss growth on the top edges of the boards. Stay tuned.

2. Manure run.  Collected both hot (fresh) and cold (old) horse manure from my secret source (nothing personal).  The hot manure was laid down at the bottom of the fence boards to create a little heat for the wintering crops.  The cold manure, which is pretty much a sandy loam soil because it has broken down for so long, was thrown on top of the bed.  That cold manure was thrown into and on top of the magnolia tree prunings, enough of it to plant the crops in.

20120107-manure-collecting

Collecting horse manure from a neighbor's pile. The bins/barrels help keep the job cleaner and easier. Using the barrels, my truck does not have to be washed afterwards and the manure can sit in the bins until ready for use. Sure is nice to load it once (into the barrels) but not have to clear it out of my truck's bed the same day. Note the looseness of the fresh (hot) pile at the rear of the truck. That pile was moved twice -- once to get it out of the way so the buried old (cold) manure could be harvested, then again to fill up the hole that cold manure harvest left. Perhaps in 6 months, that filled in hole will be cold manure soil itself. Just another example of our wondrous revolving World at work.

20120110-LTH-garlic-planting-2

It's late, but the garlic is in. Come tomorrow, I will throw a thin mulch of rice straw over the veggie seeds and garlic starts. Note how the low retaining wall of recycled (reused) fence board allowed enough soil to be added to the bed to cover most of the magnolia prunings. Will be exciting to see what crops actually do rise out of the straw mulch and to see how well they thrive in this compost, soil-making bed. Oh, did I tell you -- it's an experiment. 🙂

You, the Habitat Gardener (reflections):

1. Leaf Trench Highway is a major no-toll pathway in our garden.  True, there is often construction along this roadway, but the improvements are always worth it.  This year’s road upgrades include last year’s woodchip pile from Santa Rosa’s waterways cleanup (oak and willow), oak leaves from the neighborhood, our ridiculous Jack-in-the-Beanstalk pumpkin patch green manure, the magnolia tree’s prunings, hot manure, and cold manure soil.  Microbes party down!  All insects and amphibians welcomed.  Just add water, as the soon-to-come rains will do, and the entire length of Leaf Trench Highway will be a mess of healthy fungi, vegetables, flowers, microbes, crawly critters, and birds.  And that’s just at ground level.  The length of the trench, along the fence, is a fedge — food hedge, a permaculture term.  That hedge planting includes fig, pineapple quava, loquat, and pomegranate.

2. Our soil gets better every year as we grow more food each year.  And we share — without an atom of pesticide, herbicide, or fungicide, the trench and fedge will take on a natural balance.  The critters will get some of the planted crop, but by far, we will get our fair abundant share.

Happy soil making to you.

                                                            Tony

 

 

The Next Day and Night:

1. More cold manure soil was added to the bed tocover the garlic and to give the veggie seeds more soil to establish themselves in.

20120111-LTH-veggy-planting

Bowl-O-Seeds. Rooting powder was used to help the seeds germinate, a tall task during these wintery days.

2. The vegetable seeds were all mixed together with rooting powder (only because I didn’t have any mycorizzae spore on hand).  Life is good!, especially when I get to open dozens of seed packets that I prepared throughout last growing season.  Round and round, mixed in a large stainless bowl, or bucket, and dusted with a little love (spore or rooting powder).  Then I’ll carefully toss the seeds out onto a prepared planting bed — a dash here, a dash there, some over my right shoulder, some underhanded between my legs.  Most importantly, I get to have fun being ridiculous.  I get to plant way too many seeds.  Yes, I work hard to collect seeds all year long so that I can have a Chia Pet garden.  Too many plants that grow too much means I will eventually get to havest them, in whole or in part, and reap the green manure they are.  I will be harvesting carbon — all that alive, green plant material is merely bottled up sunshine to be poured onto the compost pile.  Sun >>> plants >>> photosynthesis >>> juicy packets of carbon >>> Tony’s compost >>> SOIL MAKING.  And with that carbon-rich soil, we will grow more STUFF, whether it be flowers, food, or fodder.  And we will live happily ever after.

The seeds I grew and collected and mixed together are cilantro, parsley, Queen Anne’s lace, bok choy, gopher plant, impatiens, fennel, round zuccini, calendula, “Primo” danelion, and chard.  Store-bought seeds that also became part of the mix are broccoli, cauliflower, and lettuce.  SOMETHING ought to grow!

3. The seeded bed, also with its garlic starts, was mulched with rice straw to keep critters away from the seeds and to keep the seeds moist for germination.  The mulch will also help the seeds receive waterings and/or rain without being washed out of the planting bed.  Perhaps too heavy a cover of straw to be left on the young sprouts.  BUT, I will keep an eye on the bed and will thin off some of the straw in a week or two.  I will be curious to see what plants actually do come up during these frosty nights and cool days.  Nice to have some ground warm perculating upward toward the seeds from the hot manure below.  Even if nothing were to germinate now, surely some seeds will germinate further down the year when the sun warms the soil and spring rains moisten it.  How fun to wait and see.

20120111-LTH-veggy-planting-mulched

The seeds have been sown and the rice straw mulch is in place. A little water. A lot of waiting. Soon enough, though, a forest of food and flowers.